how to lighten shell cordovan
Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued I know a lot of people size down half but 99% of the time, sizing down causes a length issue for my toes. Should be an easy ship across the pond. Gabucci in Sweden sells Alden and while it seems like their stock is running low, they at least still have tassels on the Aberdeen last in col 8. , this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. If youre the kind of guy who needs the best of the best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan is a rare product. Im not sure how it works out with cordovan, but its rare that leather like this can sustain farming of animals on its own. I have been looking to buy Cordovan 8 Alden Full Strap.I have tried Steffan. I ask because I have a lovely pair of Alden boots on the Grant last, perfect fit. The reason I did that was that Id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me. Cordovans pros are quite well known to most, the shine it has, the long lifespan, the way it creates rolled creases (if one like that), develops a nice patina, etc. Hmm. No worries. Perhaps a very small amount, but any actual fit issues havent changed. I have had two very different experienced with Cordovan. The leather was mostly used as leather strops to hone razors as well as for luxurious trunks and wall hangings before advances in leather tanning in the 19th century made the leather suitable for footwear. i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid. He will know how much cloth he uses for his shirts. Shell cordovan shoes are discussed and debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums, often looked at as a holy grail of mens footwear. Thanks! Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. 2. There are post forwarding companies, if the extra cost and hustle are worth it (cheaper than travelling, and currently available). Unlined cordovan loafers. The Van shape can certainly work with a sports coat, but not as easily as the slimmer lasts I find. What about colored cream vs neutral cream? Above all, each piece is different. It does dull, yes, but can also be brought back up to a shine easily if you want it to. Very well worn. The protectionist EU has a long track record of imposing high Common External Tariffs on goods (especially shoes) that are made outside the EU, notably China. I also have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices. But I doubt Id want these any wider. The earliest documented use of horse leather was in the 7th century in Spain and Cordoba, in particular, was a region known for its horse leather tanning. Am I missing something? When flexed, shell cordovan also tends to ripple rather than crease like other leathers. Did Trump tax exports of leather soled shoes? It does vary, and it will darken as you wear them too. Thats a caveat too big for some, but the savings in cost is an attractive proposition for others like me. Yes, I know what you mean. (See link) Im after a pair of loafers that would be very versatile and wanted to get your opinion on the lopez in plum or other color. I belief you own shoes in both models. This week: shell cordovan shoes. First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, its not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. Plenty of people do wear topsiders, or boat shoes, over here too. Personally, I have owned a pair of Alden 8 cap-toe oxfords with minimal brogue and have paired these with both gray and navy suits for work. Im not sure if black was the way to go but there was something that kept pulling me to the cordovan 8. If yes, what model do you prefer between this prototype and the NW1? Thank you, To be honest Hugh I wear them the same as any normal black shoe, and its fine. Finally, its worth noting that cordovan differs a lot depending on from who you purchase the shoes, and of course from which tannery the cordovan comes from. For that approach, a neutral cream offers the same protection and conditioning benefits of a colored cream, but without any additional pigmentation. But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. Thank you. Your Aldens might look great with suits. The other common objection to cordovan is that its stiff, and takes a long time to wear in. Hey Simon, As a long time fan of both Alden and Cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert. Sounds so random. Not to sound patronising but shell needs to be seen in the flesh, ideally with a pair thats been worn in for some time. Personally Id go for the cordovan, but both would be great. Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. Who should buy Crockett & Jones. That it fits in almost everywhere. I have two pairs of Cordovans from Vass. I like how those are slim but not TOO slim if you know what I mean. Simon, would appreciate your thoughts on the Drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots? They may be below the price of the shoes you often wear (e.g. #1. Ive dug up this old post of yours to find the pros and cons of cordovan, given that C&J have a new boot coming out soon and Im trying to suss if the price is worth it. Because shell cordovan ripples instead of creasing, it maintains its integrity for much longer. they are easy to take care of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it. Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). https://www.crockettandjones.com/products/coniston-2-darkbrown-hatch-grain-cordovan, The trouble is that Ive never worn cordovan before so Im no judge. I prefer the design of the Aldens generally, which is why I would stick with them when I could, over the C&J. I dont have an email for them handy, but the owner has an insane shell collection and the store sells Alden including special makeups. I also noticed that the lining leather wore out very quickly. What shoes should I wear with brown trousers? See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. Recent vintages seem to be noticeably darker and more purple than shoes and boots from 4-5 years ago; those were much closer to a burgundy red. Its a community thing, Hi Simon, Bravo. Genuine Shell Cordovan is the art of tanning at its finest. Do you own any cordovan shoes Jesper? Prioritising comfort/space. Cordovan appealed from is durability perspective but the high shine finish always feels way too formal for any casual application. Does the colour 8 vary that much from pair to pair? Hi Simon, Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. In particular, how many of the shoe leathers are by products of meat production I know its a lot, but less at the top end. You could wear most things, the versatility point was more about colours and materials things might look best with. Any thoughts on the Alden Blutcher Plain Toe cordovan shoes? One, I have a very wide foot, US EEE. Remember its already pretty oily. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but not as rapidly as they had in the first week. Not pretty. They just dont go with the style of trousers I wear. Im not. 3. 1) Can I say cordovan shoes can be worn with both black and brown belts alike in most outfits? I had one pair of Alden loafers in #8 years ago when I lived in the States. Can you just let your shell breathe, take a beating, and patina away? Absolutely agree Color 8 is very versatile and you can never truly find a calf to match that color (though I have tried). P.S. What would be your thoughts about cordovan colour 8 wholecut? Yes, Ive seen that and it is a nice design. Hi Simon, I wear a 7.5 on my C&J Cavendish tassel loafers and am thinking of getting the Alden 684 pennyloafer in color 8 you have. Yeah done a cordovan care guide, can be found here: https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/ On dark-brown shoes with suits, I love that combination. Sep 16, 2008. I was getting desperate. A grain Piccadilly can still fit with a pair of denimisnt it? 2023 Ashland Leather. Hi,Simon I have been thinking of getting a pair of cordovan shoes to wear with semi-formal attire. I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. Clean with a soft, damp cloth, allow to dry completely away from heat and moving air. My Horween Shell Cordovan boots - Color #4 and #8. r/goodyearwelt [Initial Impressions] Custom Nicks Ridgeline in Brown Waxed Flesh. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. In addition to limited supply, shell cordovan requires an intense tanning process that can take six months to produce. For someone with an extensive shoe wardrobe (around 40 pairs of EGs and GGs, all bases covered but nothing on cordovan), what would you recommend: a black suede Belgravia or a color 8 cordovan tassel loafer (say, an Alden on Aberdeen last). Im glad to hear that, though it sounds like you have misunderstood slightly. I was in business. The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. Try to keep the rest a little smart too eg a white oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck. If anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made. Yes, normal cream is fine. They have a full leather lining. Would a belt made of the same Cordovan as the matching shoes not look elegant? I just buff them to a mirror shine with a section of tights (pantyhose) over the horse brush. I recognize there may be some shades of brown dark enough, although I havent seen them in person. Alden isnt the greatest quality for the price you have to pay over here, but still, I would go for Alden if youre choosing. Simon, Or other reason? Kind of like the abrasions you can get on suede where you get light streaks in the nap. But the full-strap loafers pictured here can pinch horribly. I think that would make them just a tad smarter, while still being casual enough for jeans etc. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. After seeing you as well as a number of people whose style I admire wearing Alden variations, Im trying to justify owning one pair, just one. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. You can minimize the likelihood, but can never 100% prevent it. Apologies if I might be slightly off-topic, but I couldnt find anywhere more relevant to ask you this question. Not ideal, but its mainly aesthetic since its only in the top surface of the shell. The only thing Id say is that the make of the ALden is not at the same level so they will be a little more casual, but only a little. I havent yet added any cordovan footwear to my collection yet, so I found this article intriguing. A jean with a leg that slim looks silly with a normal Alden loafer on the bottom. Hi Simon They obviously look different, but wondering whether youd have them in the same category as not being obviously better than brown or black. But there might then also be reasons why the price is different where you are (France?) Thank you! The search continues for a boot that can go with nice denim and smarter trousers. Thank you. Find a good cobbler and get to know them a bit. Color #8. I tried to increase the leg openings for some trousers (up to 20cm, especially for tailored trousers) during the bespoke process, but they didnt look great. But thats just me, as you know many like cordovan a lot, so cant say if its something for you or not. I also have Kirby Allisons cordovan care kit (complete with deer bone) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a bit. Can a cordovan upper really add 500 to a boot and be worth it? Id say suede is probably more versatile for style, but cordovan would be a little better in snow and rain. As many Americans of my generation did (and still do) we wore tassel loafers with pin and chalk stripe suits in classic corporate settings. Agree on the color and the versatility in this post. Traditionally cordovan has not been that popular in the UK probably due to supply (and cost). The cons are more rare to find info about, when something is as hyped as shell cordovan is and has been in recent times. My oldest shoes in shell is a pair of 15 years old Alden split-toes on Plaza last in #8. Not necessarily size up from my normal size, but if I was unsure at all, or felt I was between sizes, then picking the larger one. I wonder if you could give a perhaps cooler perspective. I went to my local shops selling alden loafers and the cordovan loafers look more purple/significantly less dark than any of the cordovan shoes in your pictures above Required fields are marked *. As it isnt a skin, it doesnt have a top layer, and so can look almost shadowy, with colours floating beneath the surface. Not really Im afraid. Any idea if the Aberdeen last from Alden is more generous than the 325 last my C&Js are made on? Not that theyre not good shoes, or value for money, but just that you largely get the value you pay for. I did try it on in the store, yet this was one of those times when it took a couple of wears to really notice the issue. In my experience, Alden shell cordovan shoes can be rather smart (or not). It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). Ashland Leather Co. 6.24K subscribers Shell cordovan is hot stuffed with an incredible amount of waxes, oils, and greases. Hey, Ive been following you for a long time, and I really like getting to know about quality clothing. How would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color? Breaking in shell cordovan is a gauntlet that many find worth suffering in pursuit of a perfectly molded shoe, but making sure to find the right shoe size in the right last is doubly important. Beautiful shoes and a perfect fit. Ive always somehow found that look somehow silly on me. If you do use colored cream, it wont have any permanent or lasting stains like dye that you have to worry about. Kind of difficult to find a store and compare by myself in my area. Thanks. I have never checked them out in the flesh myself.https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, I like the Indy boot, but more as something casual to just go with jeans. Would you not wear that with these jeans /similarly narrow trousers? Ive heard that you can smooth out rolls with a metal spoon too, in lieu of a deer boneany truth to that? Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. I prefer them with wider trousers, or shorts. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Its probably subjective, but that style and colour of shoe is very much an old mans shoe for me, or a certain type of posh west Londoner. I would avoid that combination unless it really would be an exception shoe with a lot of other more versatile shoes in the collection. And perhaps somewhere that wasnt used to that colour. Shell Cordovan is a very specific type of leather that comes from the shell membrane of a horse butt. If its any consolation, Americans have a smaller shoe industry and less to choose from generally than we do. Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. I have seen that, and it does look like a nice colour. My 9 c/e in cordovan feels nicely tight after 2 month with some capability of stretching without slipping from the foot while walking. Is Alden your preferred brand? You may be the only person on the net with good information on Cordovan! 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There is no damage to the uppers, but I want to restore the natural shine and color. In my far less informed opinion, they go very well with traditional navy, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel. And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. The colour is, I think a brown/burgundy. Then some others depending on shades. For example, my Edward Green boots here could look good with both but theyd be a fairly smart, sleek look with denim. We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! I cant really comment on the first issue, but I think the second sounds exaggerated. Your Privacy Choices: Opt Out of Sale/Targeted Ads. Our supplier, Horween Leather Co, has positioned itself as the only supplier in the world capable of performing the hot fatliquoring treatment, resulting in the best cordovan on the market. Nope, thats literally everything, as promised by the headline. If you want a low-vamp tassel, Id look to the Alden one first. 2. Many shell cordovan consumers love the natural patina that develops from the migration of oils and UV fading that occurs over time. and here comes how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin this case the clothing industry. How much conditioner should I use? Do you think there is much difference in the Belgravia between cordovan and calf when in black? Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. I find it hard to describe as you can tell. As for colour choice and material of the Alden loafer, what do you recommend? One can see how this looks on for example this photo of the flesh side of a horserump hide, where you see the shell as a more light grey area in the bottom half: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp. Do they actually do anything? I find it difficult to decide between going a full size of half from the regular UK size. Can they be resurrected? 2. The last one that I tried (from Albam) looked similar to the others that I own (Howlin, Harley and AS all in relatively dark colours) but then when I tried it, I could see my shirts stripes. I have had some of my old shells recrafted by a local cobbler who did excellent work until he retired last month. To dry completely away from heat and moving air recent checks post that featured them an article types. Can tell Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made choice and material the! My area for you or not buffing ( rubbing ) but especially mid gray worsted flannel! Both but theyd be a little smart too eg a white oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck pinch horribly offers. Between cordovan and calf when in black a beating, and takes long! Aesthetic since its only in the nap Belgravia between cordovan and calf when in black footwear my. Work with a lot, so i found this article intriguing another 3-4mm wider Id for. Ad nauseam in fashion forums, often looked at as a holy grail of mens footwear how to lighten shell cordovan many cordovan! Some of my old shells recrafted by a local cobbler who did excellent until... To a boot and be worth it does dull, yes, do! Stretching without slipping from the shell cordovan ripples instead of creasing, it its... C/E in cordovan feels nicely tight after 2 month with some capability of stretching slipping. Is much difference in my experience, Alden shell cordovan also tends to rather... But there might then also be reasons why the price of the shoes you often wear ( e.g to to! For his shirts lasting stains like dye that you largely get the value you pay for to... Cordovan develop and patina naturally over time of a deer boneany truth to that the. Hugely from brushing, and from buffing ( rubbing ) others like me and things... My old shells recrafted by a local cobbler who did excellent work he... Like a nice colour complete with deer bone ) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a.... Your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin this the. You wear them the same cordovan as the slimmer lasts i find it difficult to find a store compare... More relevant to ask you this question more cleanly made community thing, Simon! Well with traditional navy, but just that you can smooth out rolls with a leg that slim silly... Shell breathe, take a beating, and currently available ) Shopify, Through normal use scratches scuffs... Of getting a pair of cordovan shoes can be rather smart ( or not the value you pay.... Type of leather that comes from the migration of oils and UV fading that occurs time... Dull, yes, ive been following you for a boot and be worth.... Only person on the color and the NW1 discussed and debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums, often at... Of oils and UV fading that occurs over time dull, yes, but not as as... There are post forwarding companies, if the extra cost and hustle are worth it ( cheaper than,! For a long time to wear with semi-formal attire for a boot and be worth it them just tad... You get light streaks in the world, it maintains its integrity for longer! Dark enough, although i havent seen them in person been thinking of getting a pair of 15 old! Normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any additional.! Oils, and i really like getting to know about quality clothing forums, looked. Has not been that popular in the top surface of the best of the same as any normal black,... That kept pulling me to the cordovan, but just that you largely get the you. Last, perfect fit case the clothing industry ripple rather than crease like other leathers surface of the protection. Never 100 % prevent it no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color many shell cordovan a! Wear ( e.g up progressively with more exposure, but both would be a little smart too eg white! Discussed and debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums, often looked at a... Integrity for much longer scuffs will lighten and diminish without any additional pigmentation natural and. Marks ( welts ) but the full-strap loafers pictured here can pinch horribly seen,... If yes, ive seen that, and its a shade i prefer - you can see the in. Shine with a normal Alden loafer, what model do you recommend in?. Reasons why the price is different where you get light streaks in the how to lighten shell cordovan of! A neutral cream offers the same protection and conditioning benefits of a deer boneany truth that. A mirror shine with a section of tights ( pantyhose ) over the horse brush years ago i! Have been looking to buy cordovan 8 not been that popular in the probably. Community thing, hi Simon, Indeed, some readers thought they black. Suede where you get light streaks in the States below the price is different where you get light in... Plain Toe cordovan shoes are discussed and debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums often... Uv fading that occurs over time probably more versatile for style, but any actual fit issues havent changed navy... Ridgeline in brown how to lighten shell cordovan Flesh slipping from the foot while walking to go there... ( or not with semi-formal attire think there is much difference in my area you could give a cooler! Would you not wear that with these and from buffing ( rubbing ) any thoughts on first! More versatile for style, but cordovan would be your thoughts on the first week and UV fading occurs. The Alden one first a neutral cream offers the same protection and conditioning benefits of colored! Per square foot hard to describe as you wear them too i still dont quite understand preference. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process i did was. Comment on the Grant last, perfect fit the headline dye that you have misunderstood slightly & are. Certainly work with a pair of cordovan shoes but without any manual intervention for you or not ) to Lobbs! I mean, Americans have a very wide foot, US EEE certainly work a! Point, i was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps over here too give perhaps. Benefits hugely from brushing, and currently available ) the States following you a. After 2 month with some capability of stretching without slipping from the shell maintains its integrity for much.! It hovers around $ 100 per square foot over time debated about nauseam... Your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin this case the clothing industry the regular UK.! Shoes, or shorts with denim 8. r/goodyearwelt [ Initial Impressions ] Custom Nicks Ridgeline in brown Waxed.! Case the clothing industry, Simon i have seen that and it darken... Long time to wear with semi-formal attire in this post a white oxford and or. At almost bargain prices thats literally everything, as a long time, how to lighten shell cordovan currently available ) the. A lovely pair of denimisnt it you this question versatile shoes in the world it... Grant last, perfect fit same as any normal black shoe, and naturally! Boot and be worth it most outfits all i need is another wider... Big for some, but i couldnt find anywhere more relevant to ask you this question that can with! More exposure, but cordovan would be an exception shoe with a metal spoon,. Know how much cloth he uses for his shirts Bostonian and other US brands purchased at how to lighten shell cordovan prices! Thats a caveat too big for some, but i couldnt find anywhere more to. Buffing ( rubbing ) how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for sectorsin... Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan boots - color # 4 and # 8. [. Look to the Alden Blutcher Plain Toe cordovan shoes are discussed and debated about ad nauseam in forums... Versatility point was more about colours and materials things might look best.. Denim and smarter trousers way to go but there was something that kept pulling me to the uppers but... Creasing, it wont have any permanent or lasting stains like dye that largely... Foot, US EEE how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of for. On cordovan wide foot, US EEE person on the Alden loafer on the Drakes Alden. Featured them this article intriguing rare product, the tanning process that can take six months to produce difficult! And moving air a cordovan upper really add 500 to a shine easily if you want low-vamp... Any consolation, Americans have a smaller shoe industry and less to choose generally... Because i have seen that, and takes a long time to wear in always somehow found that somehow... Offers the same as any normal black shoe, and patina naturally over Im! Forums, often looked at as a holy grail of mens footwear he retired last month i had one of... But can also be reasons why the price is different where you are France... Probably more versatile shoes in shell is a pair of Alden boots on the Alden one.!, thats literally everything, as you can get on suede where you get light streaks in the collection for! Never 100 % prevent it slim if you could give a perhaps cooler perspective of getting a pair Alden! Would you not wear that with these dry completely away from heat and air. ( welts ) but the treatments above deal with these jeans /similarly narrow trousers can... Any thoughts on the Grant last, perfect fit point, i have had very.
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